Thursday, May 21, 2015

Turkey Trot - Topkapı Palace

Turkey Trot - Overview
Turkey Trot - First Class
Turkey Trot - Are We There Yet?
Turkey Trot - Ephesus
Turkey Trot - Mary's House and Basilica of St. John
Turkey Trot - Swissotel Efes
Turkey Trot - Taking the Bus and Priene
Turkey Trot - Putting on the Ritz
Turkey Trot - The Blue Mosque
Turkey Trot - Topkapı Palace
Turkey Trot - Hagia Sophia
Turkey Trot - Carpets and Grand Bazaar
Turkey Trot - Dolmabahçe Palace and Taksim Square
Turkey Trot - Bosphorus Cruise
Turkey Trot - Turning Blu
Turkey Trot - Getting This Turkey Home

Our morning only half over, we walked to our next site, the magnificent Topkapı Palace.  This was the primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans for nearly 400 years (1465-1856) and was also used for state occasions and royal entertainment.  It consists of four main courtyards and a number of smaller buildings.  It has a long shoreline on the Bosphorus and once housed as many as 4000 people.  It became known as Topkapı ("Cannon Gate") in the 19th century after a now-lost section that opened on to the sea and was protected with, you guessed it, cannons.

There are large collections of items from various centuries but many of the most beautiful are in areas where photography is not permitted.  These include the prophet Mohammed's cloak and sword, large collections of porcelain, robes, weapons, shields and armor, miniatures and murals as well as jewelry.

Each of the courtyards is entered through an impressive gate.  The Imperial Gate leads from the street into the outer courtyard.  This is where the sultan would enter.  The First Courtyard is a beautiful park area, very shaded and green.
Imperial Gate

The Gate of Salutation is the entrance to the Second Courtyard.  It dates to at least 1542 per an inscription on it. Only the sultan was allowed to pass through on horseback; all others must dismount.  Only the royal family, those on official business and foreign dignitaries were allowed to pass through this far.
Gate of Salutation
The Second Courtyard was a park that acted as a gathering place for courtiers.  From here the massive kitchens occupied their own building to the right side.  it was here that the sultan dispensed justice and held audiences - a place where he could impress visitors.

The Imperial Council building is to the left side.  It was here that the sultan met with his advisors.  It consisted of three rooms.  The one where the council met even had a not-so-secret listening area where the sultan could be concealed and listen to what the council members had to say when they did not know he was present.
Entrance to Imperial Council

Detail of ceiling in Imperial Council Chamber
 The Gate of Felicity is the entrance to the Inner Court (or Third Courtyard), which was the private residence of the sultan and his family.  The Third Courtyard is surrounded by the living quarters of the pages who were in service to the sultan.  They were educated in the arts with an eye on becoming a Keeper of the Holy Relics or even a member of the sultan's staff.
Gate of Felicity
The Imperial Harem was the private chambers of the royal family.  While it contains over 400 rooms, only a very few are open to the public.  But the summer pavilions were octagon-shaped out-buildings with windows designed to catch the breeze coming in off the Bosphorus.  Lined with Isnik tiles and furnished with luxurious sofas, these would be the places that the household would spend summer days.
The Revan Kiosk, a place of religious retreat of 40 days
Couch in a Summer Pavilion


Stained Glass and Tiles in a Summer Pavilion

Detail of tilework in a Summer Pavilion

As time moved on, the sultans found they preferred staying at newer residences alongside the Bosphorus and and in 1856 the sultan decided to move the court to the Dolmabahçe Palace, the first European-style palace in the city, though the imperial treasury, library and mint remained at Topkapı.  When the Ottoman Empire officially ended in 1923, Topkapı was transformed to a museum of the Ottoman era.

We'd seen a lot of history and it was only lunchtime!  P took us to a nearby restaurant where we had a very good meal and enjoyed just being able to sit down for awhile.  But soon it was time to see the last of the "Big 3", the Hagia Sofia.

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