Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Turkey Trot - Ephesus

Turkey Trot - Overview
Turkey Trot - First Class
Turkey Trot - Are We There Yet?
Turkey Trot - Ephesus
Turkey Trot - Mary's House and Basilica of St. John
Turkey Trot - Swissotel Efes
Turkey Trot - Taking the Bus and Priene
Turkey Trot - Putting on the Ritz
Turkey Trot - The Blue Mosque
Turkey Trot - Topkapi Palace
Turkey Trot - Hagia Sophia
Turkey Trot - Carpets and Grand Bazaar
Turkey Trot - Dolmabahçe Palace and Taksim Square
Turkey Trot - Bosphorus Cruise
Turkey Trot - Turning Blu
Turkey Trot - Getting This Turkey Home

The next morning we enjoyed the first of several absolutely fabulous buffet breakfasts at the hotel.  More on that later but wow, does the Swissotel do breakfast right!

T and our driver picked us up and drove us to the ruins of ancient Ephesus, which was a little over an hour away.  This was C and D's first visit and in the seven years since I'd visited some upgrades had been done, which was nice to see.  I was so glad that the temperature was cooler than when I'd visited before when it had been approximately 1000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The city remains are more or less on the side of a hill, so it's great to have a driver who can drop you off at the top and then you can wander down and be picked up at the bottom.  So we started our journey through the city with T pointing out various things to us.  (Click on any photo to enlarge.)

City Overview
At the top of the city are the remains of home, clay pipes that have been unearthed (it had one of the ancient world's most advanced aqueduct systems), the government agora (collection of shops) and the smaller amphitheater where the city council met.  The Romans ruled this area starting in 129 BC and it was during their reign that the city flourished.  It's estimated the population was 33,600 to 56,000 people working in this seaport.  It was famed for its magnificent Temple of Artemis (aka Diana) which was completed around 550 BC.  Over the centuries that temple was completely destroyed and today there are only small pieces of it left.  Those remains are not in the city proper and we did not stop by to see them.

As we meandered through town we saw the remains of Hadrian's Temple.  The figure on the frieze represents an Athenian prince who was the mythical founder of Ephesus.  The reliefs are copies as the originals are in a museum.

Hadrian's Temple
There's also this carving of the goddess Nike, the Winged Goddess of Victory.

Goddess Nike
Further down the main street we stopped into an active archaeological reconstruction area.  Owing to the landscape, merchant shops were on the ground floor and backed into the hillside.  The merchants typically lived in rooms above their shops and further up the hill were the wealthier owners.  You can see how the walls were decorated and the floors contained mosaics.
Amazingly decorated walls

Floor mosaic

And it wasn't just the floors of the wealthy that had the mosaics.  Check out this sidewalk outside the merchant shops!  Fortunately it's roped off to keep modern day tourists from wearing it down.

Sidewalk mosaic
In the mid-third century AD Emperor Constantine built public baths.  I assume these were part of that facility.  I guess the good thing about togas is they made for some privacy!

Public toilets
A little further down the road is the facade of the Library of Celsus which has been reconstructed from all original pieces.  It was built circa 125 AD in honor of a governor of Roman Asia.  Celsus even paid for it himself and is buried underneath it.  It once held 12,000 scrolls and faces east so the reading rooms could get the morning light.

Library of Celsus
One of the most impressive remains is that of the Theater.  It's a huge amphitheater that could seat 24,000 people.  The acoustics are just wonderful and someone standing on the stage can easily be heard from the top rows.  Modern-day concerts have been held here by artists like Elton John.  This is also the place where the Biblical silversmith Demetrius tried to stir up a riot because the Apostle Paul was converting too many people to Christianity.  The metalsmiths' trade was suffering because people were no longer buying the idols of Artemis that they produced.  Fortunately the city clerk was able to calm them down before a riot began.

Amphitheater from inside

Amphitheater from below
The theater looks out on the commercial agora (marketplace) and as you walk among the ruins you can see the outlines of where the shops used to stand.  From there Harbour Street extends down to what was then the sea.  But centuries of silt and earthquakes have left Ephesus several kilometers from the Aegean.  The town was completely abandoned by the 15th century.  It's estimated only 15% of the city has been excavated though it's the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean.
Harbour Street
I was thrilled to get to re-visit this ancient site and look forward to the improvements that will be made in the future.

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Turkey Trot - Are We There Yet?

Turkey Trot - Overview
Turkey Trot - First Class
Turkey Trot - Are We There Yet?
Turkey Trot - Ephesus
Turkey Trot - Mary's House and Basilica of St. John
Turkey Trot - Swissotel Efes
Turkey Trot - Taking the Bus and Priene
Turkey Trot - Putting on the Ritz
Turkey Trot - The Blue Mosque
Turkey Trot - Topkapi Palace
Turkey Trot - Hagia Sophia
Turkey Trot - Carpets and Grand Bazaar
Turkey Trot - Dolmabahçe Palace and Taksim Square
Turkey Trot - Bosphorus Cruise
Turkey Trot - Turning Blu
Turkey Trot - Getting This Turkey Home

It seemed it would take us forever to reach our destination.  After an overnight flight from our various homes in the US, we reached London and after standing in lines to clear immigration and security, wandered around the airport for awhile until we finally met at one of the British Airways clubs.

Because C and I were using points, we ended up with a longer layover than we would have liked.  C's layover was the shortest at nearly 5.5 hours while D's was the longest at 7.5 hours.  One of the rules of using points is that you need to be flexible.  While our flights weren't free (we had to pay fuel surcharges for the legs on BA) they were certainly much cheaper than they would have been otherwise.

Naturally we had selected the lounge that was at the complete opposite end of the terminal from where our flight would be departing.  So we took our leave of the club and wandered through the shopping mall that is Heathrow Terminal 5.  There wasn't much seating at our gate and since we'd been sitting most of the afternoon and would be sitting for another four hours on the plane, we enjoyed standing around for awhile until it was time to board.

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Turkey Trot - First Class

Turkey Trot - Overview
Turkey Trot - First Class
Turkey Trot - Are We There Yet?
Turkey Trot - Ephesus
Turkey Trot - Mary's House and Basilica of St. John
Turkey Trot - Swissotel Efes
Turkey Trot - Taking the Bus and Priene
Turkey Trot - Putting on the Ritz
Turkey Trot - The Blue Mosque
Turkey Trot - Topkapi Palace
Turkey Trot - Hagia Sophia
Turkey Trot - Carpets and Grand Bazaar
Turkey Trot - Dolmabahçe Palace and Taksim Square
Turkey Trot - Bosphorus Cruise
Turkey Trot - Turning Blu
Turkey Trot - Getting This Turkey Home

If you've been around me much in the last three years or so you know I've really gotten into the points and miles "game".  This involves using credit cards and strategically purchased points/miles to travel in (relative) luxury for much less than what it would ordinarily cost.  I'm now at the point where I don't even want to consider flying across an ocean in economy class.  I've gotten spoiled by having lie-flat beds where I can get a halfway-decent night's sleep!

Back in the winter of 2014 I knew that United Airlines was getting ready to devalue their award chart, meaning that it would soon cost more miles to fly than it did at the present time.  So on the last weekend before the award chart changed, my friends C and D and I got on the phone and made our plans.  C and I were each using miles while D was purchasing her ticket.

As I mentioned in the previous post, we wanted to arrive together just in case there were issues getting into the country.  That actually worked out well with my plans because that meant we'd all fly over on American Airlines and/or British Airways, meet in London and fly to Istanbul together.  Then, on the return trip, when it wasn't so crucial for us to stay together, I could use my United Airlines miles to fly Turkish Airlines business class and visit their lounge I'd heard so much about at the Istanbul Airport.

Friday, April 17, 2015

Turkey Trot - Overview

Turkey Trot - Overview
Turkey Trot - First Class
Turkey Trot - Are We There Yet?
Turkey Trot - Ephesus
Turkey Trot - Mary's House and Basilica of St. John
Turkey Trot - Swissotel Efes
Turkey Trot - Taking the Bus and Priene
Turkey Trot - Putting on the Ritz
Turkey Trot - The Blue Mosque
Turkey Trot - Topkapi Palace
Turkey Trot - Hagia Sophia
Turkey Trot - Carpets and Grand Bazaar
Turkey Trot - Dolmabahçe Palace and Taksim Square
Turkey Trot - Bosphorus Cruise
Turkey Trot - Turning Blu
Turkey Trot - Getting This Turkey Home

I'm only about seven months behind in getting this posted.  Hopefully it'll be interesting enough to make up for it!

Why Turkey?  I got asked that quite often when I mentioned to people where my next big trip was planned.  The short answer is that it's a lovely country with lots of interesting things to see.  The impetus for this trip was my friend M.  Many years ago when he was in the military he was stationed in Turkey and learned to speak the language fluently.  Recently he'd made friends with a Turkish family here in Memphis.  Now that he's semi-retired, he decided to rent an apartment from relatives of the local Turkish family.  So for the months of August and September he'd be living in a second-floor apartment in Kuşadası (koo-SHAH-duh-see), a lovely city on the Aegean Sea.  I'd been there briefly in 2007 when it was a port of call during a cruise of the Greek Islands so I knew there were lots of historical sites in the area and that I'd love to visit.

I checked with my traveling buddies, C and D, to see if they were interested in going.  As neither had been to the area before, they were all for it.  Even before M had all the details about his lodging we realized that with three of us visiting it'd likely be too crowded for his apartment, so we made our own hotel arrangements.  A local travel agent friend put me in touch with an American who runs a travel agency in Turkey and they were invaluable at helping us get around and arranging a couple of tours.  Yes, it cost more than we might have liked but we always had our own private guides and didn't have to worry about getting from place to place with what we had planned.  Though our plans did change a bit while we were there!

Our flight plans had us flying American Airlines and British Airways, meeting up in London (C lives in the Chicago area while D lives in Southern California) and from there flying to Istanbul as we wanted to be together when entering the country.  Since our flight landed so late at night we did a quick overnight at a Marriott Courtyard then it was back to the airport the next day to fly to Izmir, the closest airport to Kuşadası.

There we were met by M and our local guide, T, and were able to feel like we'd truly arrived.  We had a whirlwind day of sightseeing the next day before basically vegging out on the second day, finally shaking off the jet lag.  We had an adventure taking the bus to Kuşadası to meet with M and he drove us to some historic sites there and we stopped at one of the many local roadside eateries.

The next day it was back to Istanbul, where we'd spend the rest of our time.  As we were using hotel points for our stays in Istanbul, we spent three days at the Ritz-Carlton (a Marriott partner) and two days at the Radisson Blu Bosphorus.  It was a bit of a pain swapping hotels, but free - or near free - was reason enough to do so.

By the end of our time we'd seen quite a bit of the two cities and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  The country - and indeed Istanbul itself - straddles the Turkish Straits which separate Europe from Asia so the country seems very Western at times while maintaining a bit of Eastern mystery.

My return flight was a few hours later than the one C and D took back on British Airway and I got to sample Turkish Airlines' hospitality for something different.  It was quite the experience and hopefully these posts will reflect the good time we had.